I probably could try and re-bend the Side Stays some more, but the studs line up nicely to the frame and axle holes. I decided to find some 1/8 inch (3mm) washers to make up the gap and braze them onto the ends of the Side Stays. This way the long Tubes are not placed under assembly stress and there is the right amount of threads exposed to allow the M10 nyloc nut to lock with maybe 1 or 2 threads exposed past the nut.
The 1899 Locomobile Steam Car Replica, known as the Lykamobile is a full scale live steam automobile manufactured in 24 kits. This kit is available from a company called "Steam Traction World" located in Daventry, United Kingdom. Each kit is to be manufactured and sent once a month for 24 months. However for cost considerations I have chosen to have my kits batched and dispatched in larger crates to the United States (Topsail Beach, NC).
Specifications:
• Length 7ft 2.6in • Height 5ft 3in • Width 4ft 7.1in • Weight 904 lbs.• Water Tank Capacity 12 Gallons • Fuel Tank Capacity 7.3 Gallons
Construction:
• CHASSIS Tubular steel fabrication, combination weld, bolted and silver solder.
• STEERING “Ackerman” design tiller steering.
• DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVE Spur gear differential similar to the original Locomobile, drive shaft and bearings.
• WHEELS & TYRES Single tube pneumatic, treaded.
• BREAKING SYSTEM Disc brake system.
• ENGINE 21/4" diameter, 3" stroke modified “Hackworth” valve gear.
• WATER FEED Twin mechanical pump.
• BURNER Fuelled by diesel.
• BOILER Multi Fire Tube, fully constructed and complete with necessary paperwork and inspected by notified body.
• BODYWORK & SEATS Wooden with steel frame, seating capacity of 2 persons, with turned decorative spindles with leather style upholstery.
• Gears: forward and reverse.
• Assemble with hand-tools only
• Step-by-step instructions
• Technical service and help-line backup
• Designed on ‘Solidworks’ CAD
• Manufactured on modern CNC machines for build accuracy and high quality
Friday, December 29, 2017
Lyka Kit #1 Chassis
I probably could try and re-bend the Side Stays some more, but the studs line up nicely to the frame and axle holes. I decided to find some 1/8 inch (3mm) washers to make up the gap and braze them onto the ends of the Side Stays. This way the long Tubes are not placed under assembly stress and there is the right amount of threads exposed to allow the M10 nyloc nut to lock with maybe 1 or 2 threads exposed past the nut.
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Thank you for sharing. You seem to have space and equipment in your workshop needed for success. Good luck with your fitting (especially the differential!). Best Wishes for the New Year, and a length of time for you project. Alan (alansloco)
ReplyDeleteThank you Alan. I'm was lucky enough to have purchased an old Ambulance building for a very reasonable price that our county was wanting to get rid of. It was an old house (1950) that they put this nice two bay garage on. My wife calls it my "doghouse". She likes to tell people that I'm in the doghouse :) I started some on the differential today, just the spur gears in the casting. I'm still in the priming of paint stage on the front and rear axles, so I'm not quite ready to tackle the drive shafts into the differential yet. I really appreciate yours and the other blogs. They have helped me avoid a few pitfalls already. Best wishes to you in the New Year !
DeleteBest of luck with the build. Great blog.
ReplyDeleteBrian. ( shedding it all)