The 1899 Locomobile Steam Car Replica, known as the Lykamobile is a full scale live steam automobile manufactured in 24 kits. This kit is available from a company called "Steam Traction World" located in Daventry, United Kingdom. Each kit is to be manufactured and sent once a month for 24 months. However for cost considerations I have chosen to have my kits batched and dispatched in larger crates to the United States (Topsail Beach, NC).

Specifications:
• Length 7ft 2.6in • Height 5ft 3in • Width 4ft 7.1in • Weight 904 lbs.• Water Tank Capacity 12 Gallons • Fuel Tank Capacity 7.3 Gallons

Construction:

CHASSIS Tubular steel fabrication, combination weld, bolted and silver solder.
STEERING “Ackerman” design tiller steering.
DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVE Spur gear differential similar to the original Locomobile, drive shaft and bearings.
WHEELS & TYRES Single tube pneumatic, treaded.
BREAKING SYSTEM Disc brake system.
ENGINE 21/4" diameter, 3" stroke modified “Hackworth” valve gear.
WATER FEED Twin mechanical pump.
BURNER Fuelled by diesel.
BOILER Multi Fire Tube, fully constructed and complete with necessary paperwork and inspected by notified body.
BODYWORK & SEATS Wooden with steel frame, seating capacity of 2 persons, with turned decorative spindles with leather style upholstery.
Gears: forward and reverse.
Assemble with hand-tools only
Step-by-step instructions
Technical service and help-line backup
Designed on ‘Solidworks’ CAD
Manufactured on modern CNC machines for build accuracy and high quality


Monday, July 30, 2018

Lyka Kit #13 Engine Part 2b

I hate negative work, but it happens to the best of us. After a fellow Lykamobile builder (Greg) pointed out to me that I erred in the placement of the Water Pump tapped holes, I redid this work. Now with the template mounted correctly to drill the 5.00 mm hole, followed with the 6.80 mm hole followed with the M8(1.25) tap.
Both sides completed and Water Pump now correctly placed on the Main Frame Tube.
All the parts that I planned to paint have been painted and cured with two coats of Black Engine Enamel Paint. The following is the subassembly of the Piston, Piston Rod, Crosshead, Crosshead Guide and Rear Cylinder Cover.
This part is mounted to the underside of the Cylinder. Care must be taken to align the Rear Cylinder Cover to match up to the steam port/channel.
The next task is a little tricky, but not difficult at all. The Connecting Rod, Crosshead and Crank all have to be manipulated to give you the clearance to allow the Connecting Rod Crank Bearing to slide onto the Crank. You need to push the Crosshead up out of the way, rotate the Crank and then slide the Crank Bearing onto the Crank.
Once that is done, you can then slide the top part of the Connecting Rod into the Crosshead.
There was a slight interference of the top of the connecting rod and the Crosshead. My solution was to back out the Piston Rod a small amount by unthreading the Piston Rod. Maybe a half turn. Another way to provide the clearance would be to file down and shorten the Piston Rod portion that threads into the Crosshead. I may do this later. Next was to install the Gudgeon Pin. You will notice that I made a small grinding mark on the outside of the Gudgeon to indicate where the small flats are on the Gudgeon. This aided me in aligning the flats to the set screws (grub screws).
One side complete !

I had to make my own M3 x 6 mm long Flat Head Screws for the Connecting Rod Crank Bearing. The M3 screws were missing, and the shortest I could find were 10 mm long. I used medium strength thread locker Loctite (blue).
I foresee an issue with the M5 x 8 mm long Socket Head Cap Screws that Steam Traction World provided for the Water Pump Ram Retainer. It appears to me that the Water Pump Ram has the ability to rotate and eventually the M5 x 8 mm Soc. Hd. Cap Screws will rub up and down on the Main Support Tube. I'm planning on replacing these with M5 set screws.
And finally a little movie. As I indicated in the last post, I had to take out one strip of Gland Packing due to clearance issues. The top of the Crosshead would have smacked the Brass Piston Gland at top dead center of the movement of the piston. Therefore I had to take one strip of the Packing Gland and then thread the brass Piston Gland upward more to repack the Packing Glands. As you will see in the video there is enough clearance now to operate the piston/crank properly.
Once Steam Traction World sends me the Piston Rings, I will have to disassemble a portion of this kit to place the piston rings on the pistons. The following image shows both sides complete. I have placed both Cylinder Front Covers on top of the cylinder and loosely screwed them down for safe keeping (only one is showing resting in place in the picture below). No need to assemble any further.
Next Kit I assume will be Lyka Kit #14 Engine Part 3 -- bring it on!

1 comment:

  1. Greg, please check your spam or junk mail folder. I have emailed you a couple of times directly about the brakes etc. and I believe my emails are not getting through.
    Thanks,
    Grier

    ReplyDelete

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