The 1899 Locomobile Steam Car Replica, known as the Lykamobile is a full scale live steam automobile manufactured in 24 kits. This kit is available from a company called "Steam Traction World" located in Daventry, United Kingdom. Each kit is to be manufactured and sent once a month for 24 months. However for cost considerations I have chosen to have my kits batched and dispatched in larger crates to the United States (Topsail Beach, NC).

Specifications:
• Length 7ft 2.6in • Height 5ft 3in • Width 4ft 7.1in • Weight 904 lbs.• Water Tank Capacity 12 Gallons • Fuel Tank Capacity 7.3 Gallons

Construction:

CHASSIS Tubular steel fabrication, combination weld, bolted and silver solder.
STEERING “Ackerman” design tiller steering.
DIFFERENTIAL & DRIVE Spur gear differential similar to the original Locomobile, drive shaft and bearings.
WHEELS & TYRES Single tube pneumatic, treaded.
BREAKING SYSTEM Disc brake system.
ENGINE 21/4" diameter, 3" stroke modified “Hackworth” valve gear.
WATER FEED Twin mechanical pump.
BURNER Fuelled by diesel.
BOILER Multi Fire Tube, fully constructed and complete with necessary paperwork and inspected by notified body.
BODYWORK & SEATS Wooden with steel frame, seating capacity of 2 persons, with turned decorative spindles with leather style upholstery.
Gears: forward and reverse.
Assemble with hand-tools only
Step-by-step instructions
Technical service and help-line backup
Designed on ‘Solidworks’ CAD
Manufactured on modern CNC machines for build accuracy and high quality


Thursday, January 18, 2018

Lyka Kit #7 Part 1 Parking Brake

One of the advantages of receiving a batch of kits (1-7) is that it gives me the opportunity to multi-task a bit. While waiting for paint to dry and applying the various coats of paint, I decided to start working on the Differential Brake Band (the parking brake). Steam Traction World instructs that the parking band lining material should be glued on, but suggests that we screw the lining to the band with brass M4 Flat Head screws. I have just completed a re-lining of my 1929 Model A Ford Phaeton brake shoes where brass rivets are employed for this purpose (on a side note the Model A brake lining material looks almost identical to what we were given for the Lykamobile). I have the Model A riveting tooling, so my thinking was to acquire brass rivets of the proper length and attach the lining to the band with brass rivets.
First I marked off the locations of the rivets. I thought 2 rows of 7 rivets around the band would be sufficient to hold the lining in place along with an adhesive.
I next drilled out each location with a 5/32 inch drill and then positioned the lining inside the band with some clamps. Next I used the same drill bit to drill through the lining using the previous holes as my guide.
I removed the lining and clamped it on my board to counter bore the holes so that the brass rivets will be recessed once riveted together. I purchased the Brass Rivets from McMaster-Carr (McMaster-Carr Rivet #97451A650), and the Model A tooling for riveting the brake linings can be found at any Model A parts supply.(Bratton's Model A Ford Supply Brake Lining Tool). Below is an image of the counter boring tool that comes with the tooling for the Model A Ford.

You have to be somewhat careful that you don't counter-bore too deeply, luckily the tooling was not aggressive and I could take my time getting to a desirable depth. I decided to use "Gorilla" construction adhesive and applied this generously about the inside band.

Next I positioned the brake lining and used a punch to assure alignment of the holes during the clamping of the brake lining to the band.
I used every clamp I had and once completed I was a little scared to look at it, conjuring up images of Medusa and turning to stone!

I had to go on a business trip for about a week, so the adhesive was well set when I started the riveting. I did have to clear out a few holes with my drill from some excess glue, but no problem. The following image shows the Model A Ford riveting tool clamped in my vise ready to be hit with a hammer to flatten the rivet.
 This image below shows the before (on the left) and after (on the right) of the flattened rivet.
 And the final product.

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