I have figured out a way to make a low water emergency shut off sensor that utilizes purchased components. The issue I have is that you really can't see the boiler level sight glass when driving - even if you add a mirror. I guess in the 1900's you would develop a feel for when to turn off the bypass water system and pump water back into the boiler. I can't imagine that I will use the Lykamobile that much to get the experience to know when to do this at the right time to avoid cooking the boiler. This modification really is a "peace of mind" improvement so that I don't have to worry. The first issue was searching for a suitable circuit. I found a circuit that can be used to either fill a reservoir or drain a reservoir. I needed a circuit that could drain a reservoir. The thinking was instead of turning on a pump to drain a reservoir, I would use the circuit to turn on my pressure sensor. The pressure sensor controls the burner which makes the steam. Once the steam is to 250 psi in the boiler, the pressure sensor disconnects the power to the burner. So by controlling the electrical power to the pressure sensor and turning it off when there is a low water level in the boiler will safeguard the boiler. Below is an image of the circuit board with annotations of how I set it up.
Next I needed to make a water column with at least two ports and position this column in parallel to the sight glass boiler water level. To do this I had to put a couple of T's in the copper lines and acquire some heavy duty copper pipe from our local building supply house. Below is the T at the top of the boiler along with the flare fittings. You will need to double flare the copper for a proper seal. This will necessitate finding a double flaring tool.The bottom copper line was cut in two with a small section removed to allow for the T and flare fittings.And by trial an error I bent the copper tubing to fit to the water manifold that I mounted on the opposite side to the boiler. This was the most convenient place to mount the manifold. I had to make a bracket from 2 inch x 1/8 inch flat stock steel cut to the needed length. See below pictures.I found some spark plugs that were threaded instead of the push on connection, the most important consideration was to get spark plugs that would protrude into the manifold far enough. These spark plugs have a 25 mm threaded reach. You also need to cut away about 10 mm of the thread to expose the ceramic insulator and electrode. This is necessary to prevent chemical buildup on the spark plug. Next I mounted the circuit board and wired it up to the electrical box provided by Steam Traction World.
You can see that I am only using the lower two spark plug positions. I positioned the bottom of the manifold about 2 1/4 inches up from the frame. This positions the number two spark plug just above the lowest portion of the visible sight glass gauge.
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