Lyka Kit #20 Burner

Kit #20 involves the mounting of the burner, fuel line, filter and electronics. I first started with the fitting that goes into the tank. Steam Traction World I have found with their female pipe threads are typically tapped too deep - meaning the taper on the pipe thread is a bit big making it a challenge to get a proper seal. Usually you can crank down of the thread, but here the thread is loose all the way until the fitting bottoms out. I don't care for that, but hopefully the aviation form a gasket sealer will provide a sealed connection. Below is the part that goes into the tank.

Next the copper fuel line is installed on the tank for fitting of the filter bracket and filter. I line up the copper pipe as best as I can, parallel to the boiler bracket, tucked towards the boiler so that is will not interfere with the water tank and clear it hoping that I can avoid it rattling on the side of the water tank once installed. The filter bracket mounting holes must be drilled out to mount it on the cross frame bracket.

Next I install the vent plug on the top side of the fuel tank.

Then the supporting bracket for the burner is mounted to the sheet metal burner pan assembly.

The aluminum flange that interfaces with the burner pan and the burner is marked to where I need to grind away some of the flange for clearance of the M10 hex head bolt.

I decided to Dremel out the slot instead of cutting the bracket completely to the slotted hole. Makes for a stronger bracket, not that it is really needed, but looks better in my opinion.

Next I have to file the soft gasket that goes between the aluminum bracket and the burner pan. The gasket is very friable and care must be taken to not damage it.

The bolt studs have to be cut to allow for the mounting of the burner assembly. 

Test fitting the burner I notice that there still is a bit of a interference with one of the studs. So I mark the area and will Dremel out a bit of the aluminum bracket.

Now I focus on the mounting of the electrical power inverter. The inverter is supposed to be screwed on to the inside left rear side panel. I decided like with the boiler pressure switch that I was not going to mount anything to the interior sides of the panels if at all possible. So I devise a bracket that will allow me to mount the inverter to the frame with the side panel untouched. The side panel will be used as one side to keep the inverter in place. The painter's stirring stick below is there temporarily only as a means to keep the inverter in place until I mount the side panel.

 

Next is the wiring of the connector, mounting of the connector and plugging in the burner to the inverter. I found it easier to take the connector apart a bit (red and black components) to allow better gripping and maneuverability.

One side of the connector is mounted to the burner support bracket. 

 Here the connector is all assembled with the connector covers installed.

Through discussions with fellow Lykamobile Builder Greg Powell, I decided to take his advice concerning a fuel shut off valve. Steam Traction World did not consider placing one in the system, and for a bit of safety I believe it is a good idea to have one. The easiest place to put a valve is at the tank. I did a little research and found a three way valve from McMaster Carr. Follow this link: Valve # 46095K51. However I need to modify it a bit and put the copper extension tube on this valve. I first have to unsolder the tube from the original fitting.

 Then drill out the new fitting to allow the 1/4 inch copper tube to be inserted and re-soldered.

One side of the diverter valve will be plugged with a 1/4 inch pipe plug. This will prevent me from accidentally opening it up, but still allow me the ability to drain the tank in the future by taking the plug out. Below the valve is installed with the plug and the original fitting in the valve to connect the copper tube. Again unfortunately I couldn't crank the fitting all the way as I would have preferred because the fitting bottomed out on the tank. This required me to cut the copper pipe and bend it to meet the valve. I purchased a ferrule to hopefully seal the pipe.

The other modification I did came from reading Justin's Steam Car Build blog. Much as he didn't like holding the burner to the aluminum flange with one bolt, neither did I. I decided to make a flange that would utilize the opposing M10 thread that Justin used. My approach is a little different than Justin's. My thinking is to make a small right angle flange that I will mount to the burner.

I realize that an M10 hex bolt mounting this flange would interfere with the M8 Hex Nut that would fix it to the aluminum flange. So I believe an M10 Flat Head Screw would work, try finding an M10 Flat Head Screw in the USA. All My local sources had screws going up to M8 and to order just one screw online is cost prohibited. Not to be deterred, I made a transition piece from the end of a M10 bolt by drilling and tapping an M8 thread into the end of the bolt and cut this off to be inserted into the M10 burner hole. See below.

Now I can use an M8 Flat Head Screw. Some countersinking was required to get the Flat Head to fully seat on the bracket.

It was a little tricky getting the M8 nut and washer threaded, I was even later able to get a split lock washer and regular washer on it after I painted the bracket for final assembly (no picture).

I feel much better about having the burner mounted with two bolts. The final assembly below.