Lyka Kit #23 Pipework

I have received kits #20 Burner and #23 Bodywork. This post will focus on the pipework. Firstly I have decided to accomplish as much as I can with both tanks out of the frame. This allows for better access and visual sight for assembly. The first item to work on is the Bypass Valve. This requires the disassembly from the frame to assemble the pipe fittings.

I used the Steam Seal Compound to aid in the sealing of the threads. I typically tighten the pipe thread as tight as you would think you need and then attempt another rotation. 

Next adding the flared brass fittings. 

You should note that later one of these fittings needed to cocked at an angle to meet up with the pre-formed copper pipe. Next the water tank tee needs to be pre-assembled before placing on the water tank with its pipe fittings.

All assembled on the tank.

The other tank requires to more 90 degree fittings. I switched over from using the Steam Seal Compound to Permatex Aviation 'Form-A-Gasket' liquid sealant. I have used this before on other projects and is an excellent product for sealing threads. 

Next on the list is to assemble a check valve to the boiler. It would have been helpful to be warned in Kit #18 instructions that the check valve cannot be assembled if the elbow next to the check valve position was assembled as can be seen below.

No worries, just a little negative work and the check valve is placed and assembled with the check ball and brass screw stop. I only needed the thin washer to get the 1 mm recommended movement of the check ball.

I went back to using Steam Seal here due to the expected temperatures this area would see. Below you will also see the brass fittings assembled for the copper tubing to be assembled later.

Below you can see the 1/4 copper tube pre-form did not do to well in the shipping box. Luckily the tubing is very soft and easily formed back to what it should be.

This piece goes from the fitting next to the check valve on the boiler to a pressure switch that is mounted on the right side wood body panel. I did much care for that arrangement. Steam Traction World instructed to drill 4 countersink holes and attach the pressure switch to the inside of the right panel. After spending much time and effort to paint my panels, I wasn't about to do this. So I decided to make a bracket that would mount to the frame and attach the pressure switch basically in the same location. The following images depict this.

Just a note, I am at this point only assembling the copper piping finger tight, later I will use the aviation sealant on all if the threads once I am satisfied with the piping. 

Assembling the T fitting for the pressure switch assembly. 

Finally the pressure switch assembled on the bracket I made from flat stock steel. By mounting the pressure switch on this bracket, if I ever have to take the side panel off for maintenance or repair, it will be easier. This thought will also carry over to the mounting of the inverter in a later posting on this blog.

Next on the list is to assemble the brass fittings to the water pumps on the engine. This is a tight area as can be seen in the next image. There are 2 threaded pipe holes facing front and 4 threaded pipe holes facing rearward. First the fitting for the front.

The next few images shows the piping assembled from the water pumps to a manifold and the piping from the manifold to the Bypass Valve and Check Valve on the boiler.

I should point out that almost all of the preformed copper tubing needed a few tweaks here and there to give my eye the symmetry it needed. Next is the assembly of the rear fittings to the water pumps on the engine and the water manifold that ties the two water tanks together. This preassembly will still be done without the water tanks installed for ease and visibility and no thread sealant. There are two different lengths of brass fittings that attach to the water pump as shown below.

You will notice that one of the traded pipe holes has nothing in it. I am guessing a later kit will instruct us on what goes there, but I am guessing it is plugged up. The next few images shows the copper pipe that attaches to the other side of the Bypass Valve. As I mentioned before, this fitting needs to be rotated some for proper alignment and fitting of the pipe.

The other end of the pipe goes to the water tank manifold. The below images shows the preassembly of all the pipes and the brass drain plug on the water tank manifold.

Final fixing of the pipework will be done once I have preassembled all the side panels, rear panel and floor panel. This work will also be done with the tanks out of the car for the same reasons mentioned before.